The short version
A washed-rind triple-crème from Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes, California. Orange-pink rind, dense buttery paste, and a beefy savory funk. It's the American washed-rind cheese that proved the country could make one, and it won Best of Show at the American Cheese Society.
What it is
Red Hawk is made in Point Reyes Station, north of San Francisco, from organic cow's milk with cream added — putting it in triple-crème territory. The rind is washed in brine during a six-week aging, which develops Brevibacterium linens and the characteristic orange-pink surface. Cowgirl Creamery credits the local fog and coastal air for the particular bacterial culture that develops.
- Taste
- rich, beefy, savory, tangy, moderately funky
- Texture
- dense and buttery, softening toward the rind
- Look
- small round, sticky orange-pink rind, pale dense paste
Fat plus washed rind is the mechanism, and the combination is unusual. Most washed-rind cheeses are made from standard milk, so the funk sits in the foreground. Red Hawk's added cream coats the palate and pulls the savory notes back — you get a beefy, umami-rich cheese rather than an aggressive one.
What it pairs with — and why
| Pair it with | Why it works |
|---|---|
| Baguette | Plain bread under a rich, aromatic cheese. |
| Dry cider or sparkling wine | Acid and bubbles against a triple-crème. |
| Cornichons and pickled onion | Sharp vinegar cutting fat and funk. |
| Walnuts and almonds | Tannin and crunch against a dense paste. |
| Honey | Sweetness rounding off the savory edge. |
| Apple and pear | Fresh acid, cold and clean. |
| Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Belgian ale | Californian wines or a malty beer. |
Skip it with: delicate fresh cheeses and aged hard cheeses. It's rich and aromatic and it dominates its corner.
How to prep it for the board
1. Temper 45 minutes. It should soften noticeably near the rind. 2. Cut wedges from the center out, keeping rind on each piece. 3. Serve about 1 oz per person. One small round serves four to six. 4. Give it its own knife and corner. The rind transfers aroma to anything the blade touches next. 5. Use it as the American answer to Époisses on a domestic board — alongside Humboldt Fog, Maytag Blue and a Vermont cheddar it makes a genuinely strong all-American selection. 6. The rind is edible and carries most of the funk. 7. Fix: an ammonia smell means it's over-ripe. Buy it from a counter that turns stock quickly.
What to buy
| Product | Where | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk | Cheese counters, Whole Foods, West Coast grocery | The original. Best availability in California and at good counters nationally. |
| Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam | Same | The triple-crème bloomy-rind sibling. Milder and excellent. |
| Jasper Hill Winnimere | Specialty shops, seasonal | Vermont, spruce-bound, washed-rind. Superb and hard to get. |
| Époisses | Whole Foods, cheese counters | The French benchmark — see its own page. |
| Taleggio | Whole Foods | The gentle washed-rind entry point — see its own page. |
| Grayson (Meadow Creek Dairy) | Cheese counters, specialty | Virginia, beefy washed-rind. Another good American one. |
Label check: buy it from a counter with turnover. Red Hawk is a small round with a short window, and a tired one smells of ammonia.
Skip: buying it outside its distribution area without checking freshness. It travels less well than a hard cheese.
Quick FAQ
What is Red Hawk? A washed-rind triple-crème cheese from Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes, California. Rich, beefy and moderately pungent.
How strong is it? Between Taleggio and Époisses. Aromatic, but the added cream softens the funk considerably.
Can you eat the rind? Yes, and it carries most of the flavor.
What else should be on an American cheese board? Humboldt Fog, Maytag Blue or Rogue Creamery blue, Cabot Clothbound cheddar, and Vella Dry Jack.
How much per person? About 1 oz. One small round serves four to six.